Grafting for hardiness

MCKATELYN · Post by **MCKATELYN** » Wed Jul 25, 2012 8:20 pm

Hi,
Has anyone had experience with grafting Sclerocactus or Pediocactus onto O fragilis 'potato'? I'm interested in being able to have Sclero and Pedi that don't need rain/snow protection in winter. Since the fragilis is so much smaller, is it able to grow a large enough root system to support the Pedi or Sciero? Does anyone know of any nurseries that sell already grafted ones? Is there any special secrets to grafting them yourself?
Thanks,

DesertZone · Post by **DesertZone** » Thu Jul 26, 2012 8:30 am

Grafting is easy, just cut the bottom off a cactus, and the bottom off the root donor(or top). Cut nice and flat (or a v cut) place one on top of the other and wrap with a string or rubberband. Leave them attached for week or so, then bury. If you use string you can just cut it of after it has been planted for awhile. If you use prickly-pears just use a small pad(needs no roots) and plant. Make sure you keep the two tight together. Or just look it up on line, lots of good info.

hardyjim · Post by **hardyjim** » Thu Jul 26, 2012 8:31 am

You could try grafting them yourself.....keep in mind
they'll only be as hardy as the weakest link.

DesertZone · Post by **DesertZone** » Thu Jul 26, 2012 8:34 am

I've been thinking of grafting prickly-pears pads on top of a cholla, just for fun.

MCKATELYN · Post by **MCKATELYN** » Thu Jul 26, 2012 11:38 pm

But with the fragilis as rootstock and not growing anywhere near as large, wouldnt that hinder the growth potential of the the graft? I was thinking it might not be able to either grow enough roots to support the larger cactus or it might even tip over after a few years. Will the Opuntia leaf live more than a couple years on its own? Thanks

DesertZone · Post by **DesertZone** » Fri Jul 27, 2012 12:14 pm

I would use a different Opuntia pad, just because fragilis is known to fall of the roots easily, and no you would not need to let it root in if you use a good opuntia pad and a small cactus graft.

DesertZone · Post by **DesertZone** » Fri Jul 27, 2012 4:14 pm

I read your post again, and I think with the right drainage you should be fine with growing either of those. Have you tried them? I know some of those grow high in the mountains and get heavy snow fall. Plus I think grafting would be done too speed up the growth. I think it would still make the plant rot? I'm not sure.

MCKATELYN · Post by **MCKATELYN** » Fri Jul 27, 2012 10:31 pm

I thought those two are very sensitive to moisture in the winter. Wouldn't rot be at the roots? That's why I was thinking if I could have a thin layer of gravel before the grafted part starts, the cactus would be much more moisture tolerant. If I use a pad species of Opuntia and lay pad flat on soil, wouldnt the graft break off once it grows some size, wouldn't that caught Opuntia to grow side pads? I have a huge ( foot long pads) growing east coast Opuntia that is at my parents house. It's been there for about 20 years and took over a large area of the yard. It grows like a week. I could cut off as many spines as possible on some pads and use that as my root graft. Have you had experience with grafting on the pad species?

DesertZone · Post by **DesertZone** » Mon Aug 06, 2012 4:50 pm

MCKATELYN wrote:I thought those two are very sensitive to moisture in the winter. Wouldn't rot be at the roots? That's why I was thinking if I could have a thin layer of gravel before the grafted part starts, the cactus would be much more moisture tolerant. If I use a pad species of Opuntia and lay pad flat on soil, wouldnt the graft break off once it grows some size, wouldn't that caught Opuntia to grow side pads? I have a huge ( foot long pads) growing east coast Opuntia that is at my parents house. It's been there for about 20 years and took over a large area of the yard. It grows like a week. I could cut off as many spines as possible on some pads and use that as my root graft. Have you had experience with grafting on the pad species?

IF you graft a cactus, mostly it is done with small cactus that is attached to a root donor. The donor will be of a cactus that roots faster and will give the cactus much speed in growth. Of cource you are going for "winter hardy" so I would go with a northern prickly pear cactus sp. and no you don't graft it on the flat side. find one that is more round than flat and cut top part of the pad off, then place your cactus with the bottom cut off and tie it tight together. Let them dry for a week or longer then place it in a pot or ground, almost complelety bury the prickly-pear pad. This pad will root in and support the cactus above the ground. If you see any new prickly-pear pads start, just remove them.
The plant on top my rot even though the roots live on...This happens all the time with yuccas and even cactus. So it is like Jim said, "they'll only be as hardy as the weakest link"

TimMAz6 · Post by **TimMAz6** » Tue Aug 07, 2012 1:30 am

I've always wanted to try grafting cactus......mainly to see if a zone 7a cactus could survive long term here in Massachusetts but never tried yet. Give it a try and let us know. I would think Pedios can survive in your climate but I'm not sure since I have not tried those here in Mass. I have a book from John Spain.......I need to find it and see what his comments are.

MCKATELYN · Post by **MCKATELYN** » Thu Aug 09, 2012 9:18 am

Ok that's really good information, thanks. I think I'm going to try to get some packs of seeds and graft seedling onto the pads. I will play around with it and see how it all works out

DesertZone · Post by **DesertZone** » Thu Aug 09, 2012 11:38 am

MCKATELYN wrote:Ok that's really good information, thanks. I think I'm going to try to get some packs of seeds and graft seedling onto the pads. I will play around with it and see how it all works out

Best of luck for you, I bet it will work good.

lucky1 · Post by **lucky1** » Thu Aug 09, 2012 12:41 pm

It'll be interesting to see the progress...maybe document with dated photos.

Barb