Ever been screwed and not known till later?

[Kansas]

I bought the "cald hardy packet" from Rarepalmseeds.com in Dec.
Got the seeds early Feb. Sowed. As I kept up on them I noticed nothing, nothing, nothing.
Finally yesterday I had enough. I thought maybe the soil was bad.
Here is what I found on the species in my baggies...

Butia Yatay: Nothing yet. But I heard these take a long time. I actually am very excited because I have not had any mold or anything bad. If anybody has ideas for me. Please send. I didn't scrape them or anything, just soaked and sowed. Out of 10, NONE have started

Rhapid Hystrix: Actually found one had JUST started a nub and another has about a 1/2" root started. Out of 10, two have started. The rest have had a little mold.

Nannorhops Ritchiana: One has a good root going. I planted it and is sitting with my Fortunei seedlings. The rest have had mold started.

Sabal Minor: out 11 seeds, 4 have been thrown away after mold had them so bad they fell to pieces. Other 7 all have had mold, and are either "eaten" by it or are fine I think. Out of 11, NONE have grown.

Trithinax Campestris: None have started, nore look like they will. Same with Yatay, if you have any ideas, please send. Out of 10, NONE have started.

Phoenix Theophastrii: Another huge failure. All have had mold. Had to throw 3 out as they too fell apart from mold.
The thing that pisses me off the most about these, is that a guy in Wichita Kansas gave me three seeds of this and within 3 weeks all three have popped and two of them have real good roots and will probably be ready for potts next weekend.

[Okanagan desert-palms]

Kansas I have found the best way to germinate "Palm seeds" is to use pure perlite or vermiculite. Fill half way a glad or ziplock plastic container with snap on lid. Get yourself a hand held sprayer use distilled water spray perlite or vermiculite till it is just moist place seeds half way into the mix with bottom heat preferably on a timer so on for 14 hrs off for 10. Any seeds that don`t like heat for germination use something to elevate it so as not touching the heat. I find that you can really keep an eye on mold and can take the seed out and clean it with fungiside or 10% bleach and water before all the seeds become infected. Also use bleach solution to wash hands before checking new containers. I find that when they do root you can see it faster and you won`t disturb the newly rooted palm. They are much easier to remove from container for transplant. Let that tap root grow fairly long 2" is best IMO.Kansas email your seed supplier let them know your not happy. Maybe they will send you new seeds. I have found if you are not happy with one seed souce try another "google it".Ask them how viable the seed is before you buy any. Save your emails so you can go back to them if they are duds.
Hope this helps.
John

[Kansas]

So do NOT use peat and spagnum thant they sell? Buy pure Perlite and do it that way?

[Alchris]

I just started growing palms. It sounds like I got lucky. The only suggestions that my supplier had in addition to what you are doing were as follows:
Dip the seeds in bleach when you first get them to kill/control the mold. Or bring water to boil and then let it cool slightly to 80 C (about 175 F) before soaking for 1/2 hour. Because too hot water will kill the seed, I chose to use hot tap water. Our hot water tank is set for 140 F which was good enough to keep the mold away from all but the chinese fan palm seeds. When the mold reappered, I soaked them again in the hot water. And

Measure the moistness of the vermiculite by squeezing it in your fist. If you can get a drop of water out of the vermiculite, you have it right. If it is too wet squeeze it until no more water runs out. If it is too dry, add moisture and squeeze again.

I put the seed over my hot air register about Jan 20 and have had the following success:
Washingtonia filifera 11 of 11 germinated; Phoenix Robelenii 2 of 8 germinated; Sabal minor v.louisiana 2 of 6 germinated; both Livistonia chinensis and Musa velutina have germinated nothing so far out of 10 & 6 seeds.
I understand that all of the remaining seeds except for Livistonia could take up to 6 months to germinate.

Allen

[Okanagan desert-palms]

Kansas I have the best results germinating seeds "In My Opinion" using the container with perlite or Vermiculite or both mixed together . Try some with the baggy and some with the plastic containers.Do an experiment with the same seeds to see for yourself. I will post some pics of some of my germinating palms in containers.
John

[Okanagan desert-palms]

Alchris welcome to the best cold hardy Palm and Yucca forum on the web. Great advice about germinating seeds. The more input the better.
John

[PhilMusa]

I know this is a dumb question however I will ask it. What is the difference between perlite or vermiculite? And one more, is one better than the other?

Thanks
Phil

[Okanagan desert-palms]

Phil vermiculite has the consistancy of crushed cork. Perlite is more like tiny limestone pebbles.I Use vermiculite to keep soil moister, Perlite for drier soil.
John

[PhilMusa]

Thanks John!

[banana joe]

I have germinated thousands of seeds over the years. YOu name the species and I probably have propagated it. R.hystrix can take up to two years to germinate sometimes. With all palm seeds be patient. I use Pro-Mix HP It consists of a peat base with tons of perlite. I use this for germinating just about everything. It costs about $30 a bale. Joe

[Pazuzu]

Kansas,
I got your PM and tried to reply, but I don't think it worked, it said there was an error.
Yes I will have the plants you want at the price we discussed. Winter is over here, all the plants are leafedback out and resuming active growth . We will be gone for this week and not back in town til April 8th. I will get with you after that to set it up.