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Winter protection only. No earthquake or tornado tips here.
I ate my words from Kent's post saying we didn't have any 20's forecast here. While we hit 28, the duration was short. Not long enough to mush the p-stems but enough to zap the raggedy leaf and roller that were left from an early frost a few wks ago.
Here's what I started with.
Need to defoliate the p-stems and clear the hardy hibiscus
This is going to be a multi-post because I lost the post twice trying to fit into one.
It will take some finagling to get good coverage but still keep the area to a managable size
You want about a foot between the p-stems and cage. Plenty of insulative ability.
Last edited by KrisK on Thu Nov 17, 2011 7:44 am, edited 1 time in total.
Just keep putting the sheeting on. I overlap the area where they meet by about a foot or so. I secure with duct tape and twine
Now they need to be filled with fallen leaves. I find that oak and Bradford pear work well.
Though theyre full of leaves, I'm leaving mine open for now, they may push another leaf before I truly put a top and lock them down til spring.
And that's it!
These protected my basjoos last Feb. I think we hit -12F
The p-stems came out green and with rollers pushing the plastic in march. The largest one bloomed and I got some small bananas. Hope to get a bloom sooner this year!
Nice progress photos, Kris.
Hoping for no -12F repeat for you.
How will you secure a top for each enclosure?
Mine (for Washies and yuccas) so far haven't blown away in the wind but I've got to find something on top that'll last through winter's wrath.
Im hoping for about the same overall winter as last year here. It was pretty decent for OK. Could do without the extreme lows.
Far as a top goes, I'll cut a piece of fencing and zip tie it to the top of each cage. Then I'll take a piece of the plastic sheeting long enough to start at the base,go up one side, over the top, and back down again. Then lay another piece perpendicular over that. Really seems to seal them up well. Then twine to hold it all together. Didnt have a problem with ice or snow last year caving the tops.
Nicely done Kris. Thats what I'm talking about. A simple, easy to follow, step by step explanation with pictures of a man and his winter protection methods. Securing with duct tape and twine is a beautiful thing. Looks well thought out and looks like you've done that before.
Thank you Kent. Yes duct tape and twine. The stuff great repairs are made of! This will be the third year of protection so I have a pretty decent system now.
I will photo document when I cut the tops off and seal them up for winter.
I'll also take pix of the palm protection. Very similar to the bananas but no leaves, just water jugs and Christmas lights for really cold nights.
KrisK wrote:Thank you Kent. Yes duct tape and twine. The stuff great repairs are made of! This will be the third year of protection so I have a pretty decent system now.
I will photo document when I cut the tops off and seal them up for winter.
I'll also take pix of the palm protection. Very similar to the bananas but no leaves, just water jugs and Christmas lights for really cold nights.
Hey Krisk. Mike trautner here from NJ. i have several very thick and very healthy musas inground (second season) overwintered lastyear outside. I have a few quick questons for you:
Doesn't the plastic create too much moisture and mold inside all winter long??
Does it matter which color plastic to use (ie. does the dark plastic get too hot compared to the lighter clear plastic?)
How do you top it off and do you ever open it up on warm winter sunny days??
What zone are you in?
Thanks for your help....I do much apreciate it
Mike
I never have had rot issues with these cages. When the lid goes on they are pretty well sealed. Not airtight but not much moisture movement either.
I've always used this translucent plastic so I can't answer that question. Since they're not airtight I doubt it will get to hot.
Read a few posts up re: enclosure of the top. When i seal them up ill take some more pix for everyone. I never open it up n they do great.
I am border 6b 7a according to the maps.
I never have had rot issues with these cages. When the lid goes on they are pretty well sealed. Not airtight but not much moisture movement either.
I've always used this translucent plastic so I can't answer that question. Since they're not airtight I doubt it will get to hot.
Read a few posts up re: enclosure of the top. When i seal them up ill take some more pix for everyone. I never open it up n they do great.
I am border 6b 7a according to the maps.
Kris
So do you allow air to flow in from the bottom at all? I am wondering if that would keep it from getting too wet in there??
Nope no provisions for airflow. I even let the sheeting overlap the ground to keep moisture out. It's worked, hope it continues to. If not, bananas will come back from the corm and get almost as tall in a season . The blooms are a novelty for me unless they start real early.
