Terdal Farm palm protection plans for Winter 2010/2011

[TerdalFarm]

If you have some spare time, please take a look at my winter 2010/2011 protection plan for almost 20 in-ground palms. I'll add photos by request. Naturally, what I really want is criticism--over kill, inadequate for my garden (zone 7a; strong winter winds), etc.

These ideas are based on what I have done in past years, Francko’s book, and the excellent advice on Palmsnorth.com. I am listing these protection ideas taxonomically in my guesstimated rank of hardiness in my climate, taking into account the unique individual history of my palms.

[u]Needle palms (Rhapidophyllum hystrix)[/u]

I have three, all purchased from the local Home Depot and planted in April, 2010.

The largest was in a 7 gallon pot and reaches 4' to the top of the highest leaf. It has been somewhat tattered by winds. So, I am more worried about wind damage than cold damage.
Plan: four step-in stakes around; wrap stakes in burlap; put mulch in bottom; muck bucket (20 gallon) inverted over stake tops as cover for worst winter precipitation.


Small needle (1 gal.); partially eaten by goats
Plan: mulch; put muck bucket over for worst.


Small needle, not eaten by goats
plan: wrap with burlap then mulch. (Quasi-experiment).


[u]Windmill palms (Trachycarpus fortunei)[/u]

Largest is the one I overwintered last year, which was nearly defoliated. New leaves have short petioles, so overall height is only about 3’ (1 m). Also, two new Trachy (3’ tall with leaves) and new wagnerianus (i.e., four "large" [3'] Trachy in total)
plan: four step-in stakes around each; wrap stakes in burlap; put mulch in bottom; muck bucket to cover for worst winter precipitation.


Small Waggie (first year in ground; total height 1’)
plan: mulch; cover with muck bucket for worst weather


[u]European fan palm (Chamearops humilis)[/u]

Four years in ground and now about 2’ high by 2’ across
plan: wrap 3’ heat tape around central trunk; wrap in burlap; mulch; cover with 30 gal. trash can for worst weather


[u]Blue Hesper Palm (Brahea armata)[/u]

First year in ground; total height 1’
plan: lay 3’ heat tape on soil at trunk base and then up trunk; mulch; cover with bucket


[u]Dwarf palmetto (Sabal minor “Louisiana”)[/u]

Planted in September 2010; 5’ tall; small S. minor at base
Plan: use four 6’ U-posts sunk 10” deep; wrap in burlap to keep wind out; make roof with foam board for worst weather; set four 1 gallon water jugs on ground to buffer temp. changes; mulch


[u]Pindo palm (Butia capiata or odorata)[/u]

Four years in ground and now about 2’ high by 2’ across
Plan: wrap in burlap; set gallon water jug on ground; mulch; cover with 30 gal. trash can for worst weather


[u]Mexican palmetto (Sabal mexicana)[/u]

First year in ground; 4’ tall (but no trunk)
Plan: wrap in burlap; set gallon water jug on ground; mulch; cover with 30 gal. trash can for worst weather


[u]Cabbage palm (Sabal palmetto)[/u]

First year in ground; 8’ tall (9’ with leaves tied together) but minimal trunk
Plan: Lay 30’ heat tape on ground around base, then wrap around trunk base, then around the 6’ tall spear; wrap petioles and fronds with burlap; use ratchet strap to hold petioles together


[u]Dwarf bamboo palm (Chamaedorea radicalis)[/u]

Three palms in small area (equilateral triangle with 3’ spacing); first year in ground; height about 3’; Musa basjoo clumps on either side which I would like to protect to offer shade early next Summer
Plan: Construct heated palm hut 8’ x 4’; height 4’ 6” sloping gently to 3’ 6” across the 4’ dimension; constructed with new 2” x 4” lumber; staple translucent plastic to sides and top; use additional roof supports; insulate top and north side with old fiberglass insulation and protect from chickens and rain with more plastic; heat with ceramic heater with fan and thermostat; monitor with wireless thermometer; set two (or more) 5 gallon buckets of water on ground inside to buffer heat changes and keep humidity up; mulch.

[hardyjim]

Sounds good Erik,I think in your idea of leaf cages of some sort makes a lot of sense
and are even effective to the north of where I live without heat if packed tightly enough.


I think the challenge this year will be when to protect........this is already the strongest La Nina
recorded(and strengthening) since 1949 when they begun keeping"accurate" records of it.


I have been trying (unsuccessfully) to find info on the weather during these events so far but with no luck...
the most I have heard/read is this current dry warm fall regime is typical.

[lucky1]

Erik,
Just a couple of comments.
Agree that your poolside tropical patio needs all the planning you can muster.

My feeling:
first-year palms need more protection (Christmas lights or heat tape) than you're planning, unless you're going to double/triple the burlap and mulch right up over the top of the plant. When you stated "mulch", I didn't get the idea it was leaf cages you were planning.
It's easier to leave lights or heat tape unplugged during "mild" spells versus wishing you had installed them as temps plunge lower than typical 7A zone.

Snowload support under the foamboard.

Heat tape on Sabal mexicana.

Your heated palm hut for 3 bamboos/banana clumps could be taller. My Chamaeodorea seifrizii (another bamboo palm) grows 2 feet a year.
That 3' 6" roof height (lowest part) means you're cutting the banana stems in Fall? or letting them hit the top, and cutting them in spring?

Brahea armata and Butia capitata...maybe double buckets?

Several additional outdoor extension cords, heat tape/Christmas lights = peace of mind = Priceless

Just my 2 cents.
Here's to la Nina going to hell.
Barb

[hardyjim]

Erik,


Here's to la Nina going to hell.
Barb

Ha ha!

You had your warm winter last year


Time for us to get one!



Sorry about your spring

[TerdalFarm]

Barb,
lots of good stuff there as always.

Mulch: I have not been happy with leaf mulch. Maybe if I had big oak leaves, but I don't. My trees are ash (Fraxinus) and hackberry (Celtis); their leaves compress and hold moisture and rot fast. I use hay which has the same problems to a lesser extent but at least I can replace it periodically all winter. I also buy bags of "cedar" mulch (really, Juniperus virgianus) which does not compress or rot. I only have mulch in mind to keep the root zone from freezing.

Snow support: thanks for the reminder. I never think "snow load"; W (from Michigan) thinks of that--I don't.

Heat for Sabal mexicana: you're right. I bought them so cheap last year (major discount in Dallas, Texas) that I took them for granted. However, they grew great this year. I figured I'd let them die to the ground, but they now have those costapalmate leaves I love. Might as well try to save those, eh? I'm running a long extension cord to the cabbage palm anyway, so it isn't too hard to add them to the circuit. Thanks!

Palm hut: you remind me of W: she also wanted it taller. As designed, I'd save the Musa pups intact but the main stems would have to be cut (see photo; the yard stick is 90 cm; apologies again for poor cell phone photo quality). The Chameadorea would be fine this year, but if they grow like I hope the hut would be too small next year. W wanted it taller. My counter was that a larger air volume would be harder to heat. But not that much, right?

As always, I'd rather get input now than in January....

--Erik

<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/am ... site"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_r-MvN4jW1sE/TLNh2 ... AG0264.jpg" height="478" width="800" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/terdalfarm/ ... e">October 2010</a></td></tr></table>

[lucky1]

Maybe if I had big oak leaves

Oak or maple are best. I have a big oak but our winds have them landing everywhere but on my place.

You'd know this anyway...but when I have extension cords running all over, I lay the joiners/duplex plugs on a wooden piece of 2x4, invert a bucket over it to keep rain and snow out, and a brick on top keeps bucket in place. Glad you're going to protect the S.mexicana, definitely worth it. Gotta make sure you connect to GFI receptacle at house (like Jim said). I'm always concerned I'll exceed rated wattage and it'll blow.

Re palm hut height. There are these post anchors http://www.priceinspector.co.uk/d/58260 ... are-prices
and horizontal joiners that are very cool http://www.decksdirect.com/deck-baluste ... ckets.html for those of us with min carpenter skills. I agree with W to make it taller. It would cost more to heat if you were using, say, spotlights but heat tape and/or Xmas lights would be negligible. Improved air circulation too.

Your January will probably be 65F if la Nina hits only the west coast
Then you can open the south side and laugh at the rest of us.
Barb

[lucky1]

Erik's reference to costapalmate leaves had me look it up...again.

Good pics here of what costapalmate means.
http://www.biosci.utexas.edu/prc/DigFlo ... lmate.html

[TerdalFarm]

Wow! This has to be a first--me using a palm word Barb looked up.
I've only been on this forum a year. I've learned a lot but have much more to figure out.

The link has some good photos. I didn't appreciate the slight given to Michael Papay, whose knowledge of Sabal I respect.
(That and 24 of the 32 Sabal "Birmingham" seeds he mailed me are putting on their 3rd strap leaf now.)
However, this website does give a better treatment of the various definitions of costapalmate than any other I've seen.

Costapalmate leaves are cool. Kind of intermediate between fan and pinnate leaves. They curve in three dimensions in a way the photos don't really do justice to. Worth trying to save, right?
--Erik

[lucky1]

Wow, third leaf already on the Birminghams? Very fresh seeds obviously.

Agree with you on the "slight" re the Papay description.
Seems out of place, unprofessional.

I think I've learned it now...a Costapalmate leaf looks like it has a skin flap

Barb