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watering potted palm correctly
Posted: Fri Jul 18, 2008 6:33 am
by oppalm
Not sure where to put this information, so I'll start here. I repotted a hyophorbe lagenicaulis (bottle palm) last weeknd as it was not looking good and the ends of the fronds were browning out and I figured maybe it needed some new fresh growing medium. Its been in its current container about 2 years. I watered it well 24 hours before the repotting. when I removed it from the container only the sides were wet and the inner potting mix was dry . mind you this is after a good soaking the day before. There is no saucer under the pot, its on a patio and I just allow them to drain freely. I immediately thought this is why the ends are browning and turning crispy as the plam is not getting enough water as the rootball has become so entwined in the pot its not allowing water to penetrate all the way through plus its all draining out so fast. The palm is in hot sun for 6 hours a day , properly acclimated, it needs water. My discovery is that from now on I will be using saucers under my potted palms to collect the drained off water in hopes that at least some of the water can be drawn back into the container and prevent this problem in the future. What do you think? Have ever had this problem before ?
Posted: Fri Jul 18, 2008 9:53 am
by Knnn
What size container is it in? Can you bump it up a little?
I have my Pygmy Dates in roughly 20 gallon containers, as hot as it's been, they will pull all the water out in a day. I think the saucer idea will keep the bottom of the root ball damp, but the top may dry out if not enough water wicks upward.
Steve
Posted: Fri Jul 18, 2008 10:27 am
by oppalm
I did bump the container size up. I'll get a picture of it this weekend. My intentions are to water thoroughly, let it set in the saucer for an hour or so and then dump the saucer out. I just think that when a plant gets root bound its tough for water to penetrate the root mass and you end up just watering the outside roots of a plant. and maybe with a saucer the water will wick up to the root ball. Just a thought.
Posted: Fri Jul 18, 2008 10:42 am
by Knnn
Sounds like a good plan, also sounds like that one has done well this summer!
Maybe we just need to invest in a drip irrigation system and only worry about setting the timer
Steve
Posted: Fri Jul 18, 2008 10:46 am
by lucky1
My Hyophorbe lagenicaulis LOOKS like yours SOUNDS
I mist it twice a day, flood the entire garden bed every 10 days. Patio umbrella over it for all but the earliest sun.
Going to either mulch it with pine needles for the rest of summer, or maybe I'll risk potting it up before Fall.
If I leave it, it'll probably croak.
It's the one-leafed wonder on the right, but leaning left.
Middle at left is the spindle palm, also not doing great.

Barb
Posted: Fri Jul 18, 2008 11:17 am
by Kansas
OP, I have been letting some of my trees stay in water for a while now. As long as you don't do it in the Winter, I think you'll be fine.
I have a Canary Island Date Palm from Steve that gets watered every two days and it sets in the saucer of water for one of those. Thing is visibly growing every day and is now the center piece of my lawn furniture on my porch. Basically, it's in water all the time.
Posted: Sat Jul 19, 2008 10:27 am
by Barrie
Warm or tepid water will penetrate dry soil much more effectively than cold water.
Cheers, Barrie.
Soil medium
Posted: Sun Jul 20, 2008 11:08 pm
by Randall
You mentioned that the water drains out quickly. You might try mixing some potting soil in with your potting mix to slow the drainage somewhat.
Also I top dress my larger potted plants with mulch to slow evaporation and stop soil splash out when watering, not to mention it looks good too.
I too use a tray under a 25 gallon potted grapefruit tree and I don't have to empty the tray due to our high temperatures here in SC lately, it evaporates quickly.
An afterthought, clay terracotta pots work better for holding moisture than plastic pots.
Randall
Posted: Mon Jul 28, 2008 8:26 am
by oppalm
Heres a photo of my recently repotted Bottle Palm. I cut off the brown tips of the each frond and it actually does not look too bad. Beer can shown for scale and not an endorsement for any product.

Posted: Mon Jul 28, 2008 9:11 am
by lucky1
Kent, ooooh, nice bottle palm. (*envy*)
Guessing it's about 6 or 7 years old?
Also the P.roebellinii partially shown at left looks to be healthy and a nice size.
BTW, beer's beer...but you picked a good one!
Randall,
clay terracotta pots work better for holding moisture than plastic pots
Unglazed clay pots are great for succulents, (which can easily be overwatered so a clay pot is good).
But I've seen in our windy area, that air goes through the clay pot.
Plastic pots aren't as affected by hot winds, holding the root zone moisture longer.
Once clay pots absorb drain water from the saucer, they hold moisture, but less than plastic I've noticed.
Barb
Posted: Mon Jul 28, 2008 9:27 am
by oppalm
Thanks Barb. I believe my bottle palm is making a come back. I cut off two of the nastiest look fronds and trimmed the ends off the other and honestly it doesn't look bad.
Here's a picture of the phoenix roebelenii. I took a bunch of pictures this weekend and will post em up over the next few days for everyones viewing pleasure. I have a small 700 gallon pond in the background, it holds plants, goldfish and toads. More on it later.

Posted: Mon Jul 28, 2008 9:34 am
by lucky1
Hey Kent, nice palm indeed!
Looks like 3 trunks??
Re the bottle palm, do you think they need a lot more humidity?
Or maybe it's that all important Potassium and Magnesium that I should have provided in larger amounts.
Mine looked like crap but I recall it was pretty beat up when I got it from the bargain bin during winter.
Good looking pond.
Will look forward to seeing your other pics.
Barb