Cycad revoluta "Collapse"???
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- Arctic Palm Plantation
- Posts: 11325
- Joined: Sun Feb 18, 2007 7:31 pm
- Location: Vernon BC, Zone 5a or 5b (close to 6A!)
Cycad revoluta "Collapse"???
This revoluta looks like somebody sat on it, almost completely horizontal.
Fronds aren't pulling, but appear loose.
It was really really dry in the cold building all winter, very little watering.
Anybody had this happen?
Barb
Fronds aren't pulling, but appear loose.
It was really really dry in the cold building all winter, very little watering.
Anybody had this happen?
Barb
- virtualpalm
- Seedling
- Posts: 150
- Joined: Wed Feb 13, 2008 12:01 pm
- Location: Miami, FL
Barb,
Cycads will sometimes do that when they don't get enough water. I would recommend tying up all the leaves and watering it thoroughly at least once or twice a day for the next week or two. Assuming you don't have any root rot, this extra water should allow the plant to rebuild the turgor pressure in the petioles so that they are able to support the weight of the leaves. You may also want to treat the crown and the roots with an all-purpose fungicide just to be safe.
If the petioles stay loose at the base after a week or two of regular watering, then I would suggest unpotting the plant and inspecting the roots for rot. If there are rotten roots, cut them off and treat with fungicide. If not, feel free to soak the plant overnight in a dilute fungicide mixture and then repot.
Please keep us updated on your progress... and some "during" and "after" photos would be nice, too.
Jody
Cycads will sometimes do that when they don't get enough water. I would recommend tying up all the leaves and watering it thoroughly at least once or twice a day for the next week or two. Assuming you don't have any root rot, this extra water should allow the plant to rebuild the turgor pressure in the petioles so that they are able to support the weight of the leaves. You may also want to treat the crown and the roots with an all-purpose fungicide just to be safe.
If the petioles stay loose at the base after a week or two of regular watering, then I would suggest unpotting the plant and inspecting the roots for rot. If there are rotten roots, cut them off and treat with fungicide. If not, feel free to soak the plant overnight in a dilute fungicide mixture and then repot.
Please keep us updated on your progress... and some "during" and "after" photos would be nice, too.
Jody
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- Arctic Palm Plantation
- Posts: 11325
- Joined: Sun Feb 18, 2007 7:31 pm
- Location: Vernon BC, Zone 5a or 5b (close to 6A!)
You folks aren't going to believe this.
I can't believe it myself.
Cycad leaves were tied, and I walked into it by mistake.
NOTHING MOVED.
So I took the string off, and LOOK!
There is not ANY PLAY in the petioles any more.
In just 3 days!
Amazing.
This is a lesson for me...never let a Sago go too dry in the cold winter building.
And it really needs to be out in the sun on mild-ish days.
Thanks everyone.
Thanks JODY for suggesting I tie the leaves up. Its leaves weren't this vertical when it flushed!
I had run out of fungicide, so didn't apply any to the Sago.
I'm thrilled. Thanks again.
Barb
I can't believe it myself.
Cycad leaves were tied, and I walked into it by mistake.
NOTHING MOVED.
So I took the string off, and LOOK!
There is not ANY PLAY in the petioles any more.
In just 3 days!
Amazing.
This is a lesson for me...never let a Sago go too dry in the cold winter building.
And it really needs to be out in the sun on mild-ish days.
Thanks everyone.
Thanks JODY for suggesting I tie the leaves up. Its leaves weren't this vertical when it flushed!
I had run out of fungicide, so didn't apply any to the Sago.
I'm thrilled. Thanks again.
Barb
ALRIGHT!!!!!!!!!!!! GREAT NEWS!!!
Hey this made me think of a secret I do also. While I have many many cycad/dioon in the greenhouse, the second I see anything starting to flush, I emmediately move it to full sun (south side of the GH) and water it well. Seems to be working GREAT so far. Just wanted to throw that out there.
But man, that is great news Luck.
Hey this made me think of a secret I do also. While I have many many cycad/dioon in the greenhouse, the second I see anything starting to flush, I emmediately move it to full sun (south side of the GH) and water it well. Seems to be working GREAT so far. Just wanted to throw that out there.
But man, that is great news Luck.
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- Arctic Palm Plantation
- Posts: 11325
- Joined: Sun Feb 18, 2007 7:31 pm
- Location: Vernon BC, Zone 5a or 5b (close to 6A!)
Yup, great news indeed. So your secret kansas wes, was to maintain the cell's structure without even knowing it
Jody hit the nail on the head.
I'm really grateful, thanks Jody.
This explains TURGOR:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turgor
I'd always thought that the colder the winter temps, the drier a plant should be kept.
But I guess there's a limit to dryness even in temps of 38 to 42 F.
Barb
Jody hit the nail on the head.
I'm really grateful, thanks Jody.
This explains TURGOR:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turgor
I'd always thought that the colder the winter temps, the drier a plant should be kept.
But I guess there's a limit to dryness even in temps of 38 to 42 F.
Barb
- virtualpalm
- Seedling
- Posts: 150
- Joined: Wed Feb 13, 2008 12:01 pm
- Location: Miami, FL
- virtualpalm
- Seedling
- Posts: 150
- Joined: Wed Feb 13, 2008 12:01 pm
- Location: Miami, FL
-
- Arctic Palm Plantation
- Posts: 11325
- Joined: Sun Feb 18, 2007 7:31 pm
- Location: Vernon BC, Zone 5a or 5b (close to 6A!)
It's back indoors because of our cold temps, but the fronds have remained tightly held after the heavy
waterings (suggested by Jody).
I had tied the fronds up in a haphazard almost vertical arrangement when I watered them.
They hardened exactly in that vertical position.
Looks kinda cool, like they saw a ghost
Thanks for asking.
Barb
waterings (suggested by Jody).
I had tied the fronds up in a haphazard almost vertical arrangement when I watered them.
They hardened exactly in that vertical position.
Looks kinda cool, like they saw a ghost
Thanks for asking.
Barb
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