Germinating Dypsis decaryi seeds
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- Arctic Palm Plantation
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- Joined: Sun Feb 18, 2007 7:31 pm
- Location: Vernon BC, Zone 5a or 5b (close to 6A!)
Germinating Dypsis decaryi seeds
The seedcoats look very hard, even after 36 hours in warm water.
Should I nick the seeds with a knife and then put them back in water?
Or just wait for them to open up on their own?
H A L L O O O O O Seed Master (Steve) !
Should I nick the seeds with a knife and then put them back in water?
Or just wait for them to open up on their own?
H A L L O O O O O Seed Master (Steve) !
- Knnn
- Clumping Palm
- Posts: 2368
- Joined: Sun Mar 05, 2006 2:54 am
- Location: Central Kansas , USA ~ Zone 5
Hi Barb, For the ones I've done....
A 2-3 Day Soak, changing the water every day- I've never found a need to nick these seeds, if you can find a way to keep the water between 25C - 35C while soaking it seems to help.
After that, set them into a baggie or container with either moistened Sphagnum Moss or Perlite. ~ With the Sphagnum, soak it in warm water, take a handful and wring all the water out of it. With the Perlite, rinse it out a couple times to get rid of the dust and just shake the excess water off.
Find someplace warm to put them, On top of the computer monitor, television, cable box, etc. someplace preferably between 30C - 38C
Check them at least once a week, if the medium is drying out, mist it a bit. I have had some germinate in a week and others take a couple months. If you notice any mold growth just scrub them down and rinse them off, ( old toothbrushes are good for this)
Once they germinate, the first thing you will see is the radicle , ( this will always grow downward) , wait until this is at least 1" long and then pot them up into at least a 6" deep container with the seed placed about 1/2 way into the soil.
( those 20oz Styrofoam cups are just about the perfect size .......
Good Luck with them !! These do seem to grow pretty fast.
Steve
A 2-3 Day Soak, changing the water every day- I've never found a need to nick these seeds, if you can find a way to keep the water between 25C - 35C while soaking it seems to help.
After that, set them into a baggie or container with either moistened Sphagnum Moss or Perlite. ~ With the Sphagnum, soak it in warm water, take a handful and wring all the water out of it. With the Perlite, rinse it out a couple times to get rid of the dust and just shake the excess water off.
Find someplace warm to put them, On top of the computer monitor, television, cable box, etc. someplace preferably between 30C - 38C
Check them at least once a week, if the medium is drying out, mist it a bit. I have had some germinate in a week and others take a couple months. If you notice any mold growth just scrub them down and rinse them off, ( old toothbrushes are good for this)
Once they germinate, the first thing you will see is the radicle , ( this will always grow downward) , wait until this is at least 1" long and then pot them up into at least a 6" deep container with the seed placed about 1/2 way into the soil.
( those 20oz Styrofoam cups are just about the perfect size .......
Good Luck with them !! These do seem to grow pretty fast.
Steve
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- Arctic Palm Plantation
- Posts: 11325
- Joined: Sun Feb 18, 2007 7:31 pm
- Location: Vernon BC, Zone 5a or 5b (close to 6A!)
As always, Steve, I'm grateful I can learn from your vast experience.
And thanks for that mold warning, Kansas!
To try and get the hang of this, I read some of your previous germinating entries. One was on Dypsis that the seedling was putting up the longest shoot yet.
Spent half an hour today FEELING appliances, etc. etc. for a warm spot to germinate (don't feel comfortable leaving the gas fireplace on when I go out).
Our hot water tank is obviously too well insulated, because it's cold on top.
The fridge has the freezer on the bottom, and the top is cold...and dusty
My computer monitor is warm near the top, so I'll use that when the thingy...oops...radicle shows.
I've printed out your instructions so I don't screw up.
One question re: "seed placed about 1/2 way into the soil".
From your pictures, it appears you lay your seed on its side?
Like it would naturally...if it fell from a parent tree and germinated?
Or do you stand them up (like eggs in an egg carton)?
Thanks for this Steve!
From a fellow palm germinator (ya right... )
Barb
And thanks for that mold warning, Kansas!
To try and get the hang of this, I read some of your previous germinating entries. One was on Dypsis that the seedling was putting up the longest shoot yet.
Spent half an hour today FEELING appliances, etc. etc. for a warm spot to germinate (don't feel comfortable leaving the gas fireplace on when I go out).
Our hot water tank is obviously too well insulated, because it's cold on top.
The fridge has the freezer on the bottom, and the top is cold...and dusty
My computer monitor is warm near the top, so I'll use that when the thingy...oops...radicle shows.
I've printed out your instructions so I don't screw up.
One question re: "seed placed about 1/2 way into the soil".
From your pictures, it appears you lay your seed on its side?
Like it would naturally...if it fell from a parent tree and germinated?
Or do you stand them up (like eggs in an egg carton)?
Thanks for this Steve!
From a fellow palm germinator (ya right... )
Barb
- Knnn
- Clumping Palm
- Posts: 2368
- Joined: Sun Mar 05, 2006 2:54 am
- Location: Central Kansas , USA ~ Zone 5
Barb, In a baggie on top of the computer monitor would probably work the best....just don't cover more than half the vents . ( I can say this from experience
When planting place the seed on it's side with the radicle pointed down. ( You are right that it is replicating natural conditions as much as possible) These are adjacent germinators, once the radicle grows downward and the root system starts, a "button" will form on the end of the seed. From this the cotyledon stalk forms and grows into your first leaves.
This is the only Triangle germinated seed picture I could find, ( Just try to ignore that the roots and leaves are growing in the same direction
The roots will form first, then the "button" will form on the end of the seed and grow into the first leaves
Steve
When planting place the seed on it's side with the radicle pointed down. ( You are right that it is replicating natural conditions as much as possible) These are adjacent germinators, once the radicle grows downward and the root system starts, a "button" will form on the end of the seed. From this the cotyledon stalk forms and grows into your first leaves.
This is the only Triangle germinated seed picture I could find, ( Just try to ignore that the roots and leaves are growing in the same direction
The roots will form first, then the "button" will form on the end of the seed and grow into the first leaves
Steve
<a href="http://www.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/fin ... 2day"><img src="http://weathersticker.wunderground.com/ ... anguage=EN" alt="Click for Tescott, Kansas Forecast" height="100" width="300" />
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- Arctic Palm Plantation
- Posts: 11325
- Joined: Sun Feb 18, 2007 7:31 pm
- Location: Vernon BC, Zone 5a or 5b (close to 6A!)
Yup, already thought I might blow my monitor ... but with only 3 seeds a small baggie'll do it.
That button thingy is sure an interesting aspect...glad to have that explanation.
That was the picture I saw in one of your previous posts...and then once it was growing I think you comment was that the Decaryi had the longest shoot of those you were germinating.
I read with interest your comment about the roots and shoot going the same direction, and you figured out how to "even it out". The shoot did turn up soon afterward.
Did you leave it in your baggie until that stage? The shoot looked like it was already an inch or two long in this pic.
And man, look at those roots !!!
I thought you normally planted them when the radicle emerged.
Or were you already transplanting this into its SECOND pot?
I'm learning...thanks for your patience.
Barb
That button thingy is sure an interesting aspect...glad to have that explanation.
That was the picture I saw in one of your previous posts...and then once it was growing I think you comment was that the Decaryi had the longest shoot of those you were germinating.
I read with interest your comment about the roots and shoot going the same direction, and you figured out how to "even it out". The shoot did turn up soon afterward.
Did you leave it in your baggie until that stage? The shoot looked like it was already an inch or two long in this pic.
And man, look at those roots !!!
I thought you normally planted them when the radicle emerged.
Or were you already transplanting this into its SECOND pot?
I'm learning...thanks for your patience.
Barb
- Knnn
- Clumping Palm
- Posts: 2368
- Joined: Sun Mar 05, 2006 2:54 am
- Location: Central Kansas , USA ~ Zone 5
That one was already potted up, it was showing no top growth after all the others from that batch were well on their way.
Thought it might have rotted and was emptying it's container out when I found it seems to be doing just fine now.
These have been some of the faster growing Palms I've had, ( will get some new pictures to show the growth rates), I would also keep them out of direct sunlight till they gain some size. ( Mine grew well last Winter with just a 23W compact fluorescent above them)
Steve
Thought it might have rotted and was emptying it's container out when I found it seems to be doing just fine now.
These have been some of the faster growing Palms I've had, ( will get some new pictures to show the growth rates), I would also keep them out of direct sunlight till they gain some size. ( Mine grew well last Winter with just a 23W compact fluorescent above them)
Steve
<a href="http://www.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/fin ... 2day"><img src="http://weathersticker.wunderground.com/ ... anguage=EN" alt="Click for Tescott, Kansas Forecast" height="100" width="300" />
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- Arctic Palm Plantation
- Posts: 11325
- Joined: Sun Feb 18, 2007 7:31 pm
- Location: Vernon BC, Zone 5a or 5b (close to 6A!)
Steve,
The one in the pic (that hadn't shown any top growth) I suppose is proof that we don't know until we
try to repot what's going on underneath a slow plant.
Glad it's doing well.
Might turn out to be a superstar!
Interesting that Triangle palms don't need a lot of bright light when young.
Perfect in my situation with no lights except what comes through the window.
Poured rain all afternoon and so far tonight...my south window plants will be leaning big time looking for rays!
Thanks for this, Steve.
Hope that nasty weather missed you folks again.
Barb
The one in the pic (that hadn't shown any top growth) I suppose is proof that we don't know until we
try to repot what's going on underneath a slow plant.
Glad it's doing well.
Might turn out to be a superstar!
Interesting that Triangle palms don't need a lot of bright light when young.
Perfect in my situation with no lights except what comes through the window.
Poured rain all afternoon and so far tonight...my south window plants will be leaning big time looking for rays!
Thanks for this, Steve.
Hope that nasty weather missed you folks again.
Barb
- Knnn
- Clumping Palm
- Posts: 2368
- Joined: Sun Mar 05, 2006 2:54 am
- Location: Central Kansas , USA ~ Zone 5
Best of luck with them!
We had a few normal Kansas storms, wind, small hail, lots of rain, but the rivers are still in their channels
Steve
We had a few normal Kansas storms, wind, small hail, lots of rain, but the rivers are still in their channels
Steve
<a href="http://www.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/fin ... 2day"><img src="http://weathersticker.wunderground.com/ ... anguage=EN" alt="Click for Tescott, Kansas Forecast" height="100" width="300" />
- Knnn
- Clumping Palm
- Posts: 2368
- Joined: Sun Mar 05, 2006 2:54 am
- Location: Central Kansas , USA ~ Zone 5
Wes,
They are doing pretty good, (slowed down a little with the transplant and cooler temps)
Barb,
Here's a couple from that batch. When grown in lower light they will be a darker green, (and maybe a bit more stretched out) I do have a couple in brighter spots, ( results are a more compact form and a lighter green coloring) I prefer the darker green in this state they are also well suited to be indoors for the Winter.
( I'm off to medical experiments this morning ,so if you don't hear from me for a day or two don't think I'm being rude
Steve
They are doing pretty good, (slowed down a little with the transplant and cooler temps)
Barb,
Here's a couple from that batch. When grown in lower light they will be a darker green, (and maybe a bit more stretched out) I do have a couple in brighter spots, ( results are a more compact form and a lighter green coloring) I prefer the darker green in this state they are also well suited to be indoors for the Winter.
( I'm off to medical experiments this morning ,so if you don't hear from me for a day or two don't think I'm being rude
Steve
<a href="http://www.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/fin ... 2day"><img src="http://weathersticker.wunderground.com/ ... anguage=EN" alt="Click for Tescott, Kansas Forecast" height="100" width="300" />
- Knnn
- Clumping Palm
- Posts: 2368
- Joined: Sun Mar 05, 2006 2:54 am
- Location: Central Kansas , USA ~ Zone 5
Barb......
I guess the proper terminology is medical "Test"
From a layman"s perspective ......I had two dozen electrodes glued to my head. Then instructed to lie down and maybe try to take a nap, also to ignore the intermittent pulses from the strobe light 2 inches from my eyeballs.
( The only thing missing from this scene were people chanting in the background
Steve
I guess the proper terminology is medical "Test"
From a layman"s perspective ......I had two dozen electrodes glued to my head. Then instructed to lie down and maybe try to take a nap, also to ignore the intermittent pulses from the strobe light 2 inches from my eyeballs.
( The only thing missing from this scene were people chanting in the background
Steve
<a href="http://www.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/fin ... 2day"><img src="http://weathersticker.wunderground.com/ ... anguage=EN" alt="Click for Tescott, Kansas Forecast" height="100" width="300" />
-
- Arctic Palm Plantation
- Posts: 11325
- Joined: Sun Feb 18, 2007 7:31 pm
- Location: Vernon BC, Zone 5a or 5b (close to 6A!)
Is there hope?
Dypsis decaryi seeds:
Do you think they're coming?
The middle seed shows a couple of "thin marks" from being rubbed with an emery board.
Do you think they're coming?
The middle seed shows a couple of "thin marks" from being rubbed with an emery board.
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