Trachy Dead or alive?
Moderators: lucky1, Alchris, Kansas, Wes North Van, Laaz
Trachy Dead or alive?
Hello all. First let me start with saying that I don't have any pics yet but wanted to get some opinions anyway, if possible. I have a young Trachy that's now been through 3 winters (2 easy, 1 brutal) and it looked as if it came through ok. Then recently I noticed the newest spear, which was starting to spread out into a frond, was completely brown. It looked as if was dead but yet it was still getting taller. I tried to pull it and it was intact however, again, it was brown. Then I noticed as it got slightly taller, the very bottom of it at the base looked like it was moldy. I then pulled it again and it broke. the spear did not pull from inside but yet it just broke from a straight pull. no bending or twisting at all on my part. It was as if something had destroyed that one spear/frond. Is this a situation that maybe a fungicide would help with. Remember, the spear didn't actually pull out and all other fronds look relatively healthy (considering the winter they just endured).
thanks in advance for any help and again, sorry for no pics as I know they would help greatly.
thanks in advance for any help and again, sorry for no pics as I know they would help greatly.
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- Arctic Palm Plantation
- Posts: 11325
- Joined: Sun Feb 18, 2007 7:31 pm
- Location: Vernon BC, Zone 5a or 5b (close to 6A!)
Sounds like fungicide should've been applied earlier.
Mold in the spear can spell the end.
Health of oldest fronds has nothing to do with palm living or dying if the spear is moldy.
"hardyjim" has several posts with good photos on trunk cutting when a spear has rotted.
Sorry but can't find them right now.
you're right, photos would help.
Barb
Mold in the spear can spell the end.
Health of oldest fronds has nothing to do with palm living or dying if the spear is moldy.
"hardyjim" has several posts with good photos on trunk cutting when a spear has rotted.
Sorry but can't find them right now.
you're right, photos would help.
Barb
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If you drink, don't drive. Don't even putt.
If you drink, don't drive. Don't even putt.
Thanks so much for the reply. Unfortunately that's what I was afraid of.
So I'm guessing then that it's too late at this point? Also, as I do have 3 other "healthy" Windmills in the ground, is there any particular type of fungicide you would recommend?
also for some other info, I do keep the top of my winter protection open most of the time and so I didn't think this would be an issue.
So I'm guessing then that it's too late at this point? Also, as I do have 3 other "healthy" Windmills in the ground, is there any particular type of fungicide you would recommend?
also for some other info, I do keep the top of my winter protection open most of the time and so I didn't think this would be an issue.
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- Arctic Palm Plantation
- Posts: 11325
- Joined: Sun Feb 18, 2007 7:31 pm
- Location: Vernon BC, Zone 5a or 5b (close to 6A!)
It's not over for your palm (if you can find hardyjim's post on spear-cutting/trunk-cutting below the damage to get to healthy tissue).
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If you drink, don't drive. Don't even putt.
If you drink, don't drive. Don't even putt.
Update (& then some)
For anyone interested, the Trachy in the above posts has come through this year with flying colors to say the least. After early spring it looked like it was doomed and as of now it's still growing. Last count is 10 new fronds this year. So of course I'm happy about that and have since planted 2 additional Trachy's (with about a 1' trunk from Home Depot). So now I have a couple of questions if anyone out there with more knowledge than me can give some advice.
I now have 4 Trachys and while the original two will be protected as usual, I need to try something different on the other two. I would like to tightly wrap them in burlap while providing a 4" or so layer of mulch around the base. So my first question is, would this be enough protection? My other two are in an insulated tomato cage with C9 lights. I would also apply a small amount of fungicide. So my second question and one which is also in another post, which fungicide (if any) is recommended and should it simply be applied before they get wrapped?
Thanks again
I now have 4 Trachys and while the original two will be protected as usual, I need to try something different on the other two. I would like to tightly wrap them in burlap while providing a 4" or so layer of mulch around the base. So my first question is, would this be enough protection? My other two are in an insulated tomato cage with C9 lights. I would also apply a small amount of fungicide. So my second question and one which is also in another post, which fungicide (if any) is recommended and should it simply be applied before they get wrapped?
Thanks again
- TerdalFarm
- Palm Grove
- Posts: 2983
- Joined: Mon Oct 12, 2009 7:48 pm
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Thanks for the update!
That is great news.
I think with zone 7a, you should be fine with the protection you described. I'd spray fungicide before wrapping. I use a copper-based one, but figure all are good. (Others here know more.)
I suggest having a couple plastic garbage cans in the garage. If you get another "polar vortex" thing, put used plastic milk jugs, 2 litre pop bottles etc with hot tap water around the trunk, then put a plastic trash can over for the duration. Easy, not expensive.
That is great news.
I think with zone 7a, you should be fine with the protection you described. I'd spray fungicide before wrapping. I use a copper-based one, but figure all are good. (Others here know more.)
I suggest having a couple plastic garbage cans in the garage. If you get another "polar vortex" thing, put used plastic milk jugs, 2 litre pop bottles etc with hot tap water around the trunk, then put a plastic trash can over for the duration. Easy, not expensive.
Sometimes when growth stops,the tissue that is
locked in place for a while can get moldy,the mold/fungus eats
through the spear and severs it-usually the spear will grow out of it-
you see this a lot when cold and moisture are present when damage appears
but the rest of the time the plant is dry enough that fungus growth does not spread.
locked in place for a while can get moldy,the mold/fungus eats
through the spear and severs it-usually the spear will grow out of it-
you see this a lot when cold and moisture are present when damage appears
but the rest of the time the plant is dry enough that fungus growth does not spread.
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