Rain and winter cover

lucky1 · Post by **lucky1** » Wed Nov 19, 2008 11:33 am

Damn shame on lovely specimens; yet the camera doesn't see as much.

Re vent for moisture...even a 2inch or 4 inch (versus the entire back) would vent moisture, driven out by the fan.

Plants attain hardiness as they age keeps ringing in my ears...maybe that means as much as 5 or more years old.

Small(er) root systems might not stand a chance.
Barb

hardyjim · Post by **hardyjim** » Wed Nov 19, 2008 2:08 pm

I think the comment "palms attain hardiness with age" you could also add that hardiness increases with time in the ground as you can see the trachys that have been through winter in the ground are unfazed.You can see in the pics that there is some moisture on the agaves,this should begin to clear up(I hope)in a few days to a week,my other little g/houses are already just about clear when closed up,which is a good sign for the trachys with spear pull.One of the advantages of growing trachys in a mini greenhouse is that they continue to grow over the winter and as you can see,nainital and wagxfort are very healthy,treated with fungicide,and in a good position to recover if they can get 4-6weeks of weather without severe cold,which I should be able to protect them from.The nainital spear is intact so it may recover fast!
Here are some more pics of trachys in mini g/houses and sabals(I do have one S.louisiana in with the nainital so I can compare this method with leaf cages) that are in styro covers for now,until they get their leaf cages-The 2 pure waggies are in the tiny g/h's
<a href="http://s297.photobucket.com/albums/mm22 ... -08018.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm22 ... -08018.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s297.photobucket.com/albums/mm22 ... -08016.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm22 ... -08016.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s297.photobucket.com/albums/mm22 ... -08003.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm22 ... -08003.jpg" border="0" alt="Greenhouse"></a>
<a href="http://s297.photobucket.com/albums/mm22 ... -08002.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm22 ... -08002.jpg" border="0" alt="Inside view of g/h"></a>
<a href="http://s297.photobucket.com/albums/mm22 ... -08015.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm22 ... -08015.jpg" border="0" alt="S.louisiana"></a>

lucky1 · Post by **lucky1** » Wed Nov 19, 2008 8:53 pm

Jim, I had read somewhere not to plant palms in the ground--even hardy ones--until they're at least at the 2 to 5 gallon size. But they obviously weren't talking about trachys...nainital, waggie x fortunei, etc.

I'm particularly impressed with my nainital, nothing seemed to faze it (but then it's never been out all winter).
Both it and my 31 year old fortunei (yup, it's 31...that's it pictured in my avatar) like spring and fall far better than summer.
And in summer, they're in only morning sun because it gets so hot.

Good you got the fungicide on.
And the moisture has vented completely! Good thing.

What was your outside temp when the inside thermometer was at 65 F?

Figured out why your cordyline(s) died and neighbor's cordys were fine?

You've done a lot of work; very satisfying I bet.

Want a few more pics?
Here's my Jade tree, also 31 yrs. old

I pressed the wrong button, and poof, Submitted.
More pics another time.
Barb

hardyjim · Post by **hardyjim** » Thu Nov 20, 2008 2:34 pm

Barb,love jade plants have grown them for years and finally have one that is taking on a tree form.Your jade is awesome!!! I would love to see more pics!Here are some pics of mine and the latest project,leaf pile around the needle palms that have not been covered yet and still look great after 18F,supposed to be 10F-15F tomorrow morning,so I am not chancing anymore cold damage!if these leaf piles don't work(they will

)no leaf pile will.Here is a few shots of the steps involved and the end result-
<a href="http://s297.photobucket.com/albums/mm22 ... -08002.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm22 ... -08002.jpg" border="0" alt="10yr old Jade 2nd year flowering"></a>
<a href="http://s297.photobucket.com/albums/mm22 ... -08003.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm22 ... -08003.jpg" border="0" alt="Jade"></a>
Leaf piles on Needle palms,I put burlap sacks around them(you may be able to see in background of first pic,then styrofoam,stuffed with leaves and then some mulch to hold leaves in place
<a href="http://s297.photobucket.com/albums/mm22 ... -08006.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm22 ... -08006.jpg" border="0" alt="Leaf pile(needle palm)"></a>
<a href="http://s297.photobucket.com/albums/mm22 ... -08007.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm22 ... -08007.jpg" border="0" alt="Leaf piles(needle palms)"></a>
<a href="http://s297.photobucket.com/albums/mm22 ... -08008.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm22 ... -08008.jpg" border="0" alt="needle palm protection"></a>

lucky1 · Post by **lucky1** » Fri Nov 21, 2008 10:14 am

Jim, great jade you've got.
And your living room looks like mine

too many plants, not enough room for people

If that leaf enclosure (and the whole system) doesn't protect your needles, nothing will.
I think it's exceptionally well planned and done.

Do you grow any cycads?
Here are a few of mine...the ones in red/white drink containers were grown from seed.
One cycas panzhihuaensis, four cycas debaoensis.
Others I bought are: zamia furfuracea, z.vasquezii, z.picta.
My fav cycad, not shown here, is the Dioon spinulosum, grows huge in no time.

Here are my three Washy filifera. Love 'em

Barb

hardyjim · Post by **hardyjim** » Fri Nov 21, 2008 1:58 pm

Thanks Barb,I have a Sago palm and thats about it,I like them,just don't run across them very often.My Sago put out its first set of leaves in 2 years,really amazing how fast they grow!basically three weeks to put out a new flush!spectacular

You asked earlier what outside temp was when temp in mini g/h was 65F,the temp outside was approx 55F, with the flap open temps will stay close to outside temp,the mini g/h's will usually give a bump up of 40F-50F in full sunshine,so when the temp is around freezing I can open them up and if it is less they stay closed and will range between 60F-80F with temps in the upper 20s-so if(god forbid)we did not get above 0F I would need to add heat night and day,pretty unlikely though.
I have about 7 more leaf cages to build(such smaller)and everything is protected,I am trying to find a min/max thermometer to put in one of the leaf cages,I have heard that the temp stays above 20F,that would be cool as I would prefer to use more L/cages next year but I will always use the mini g/h's cuz its just to fun to come home and see your little palms growing right through the winter!

lucky1 · Post by **lucky1** » Fri Nov 21, 2008 8:45 pm

Nice sago Jim. That's a beaut.
Great that yours grows fast. My two sagos have slowed down, probably from neglect.
Need to give them more water when its hot in summer.

Perfect inside temps (with flaps open) for the weather conditions you indicate.
Too bad we all have to add heat; it'd be so much easier if the mini GHs would be enough.

its just to fun to come home and see your little palms

That was the risky thing before I was home permanently. I'd be sitting at work, see the rain/snow stop, sun come out and the temperature increase by 10 degrees. Worried all afternoon that my covered stuff would cook because there was nobody at home to drop the flaps...and that was just a vegetable garden in those days!

Like you, Jim, I derive a lot of pleasure looking over my palms and cycads every day or two.

I just bought a (too cheap) min max thermometer.
National Geographic model.
Can't get the LED to function properly. Should probably ask an 8 year old how to do it!

I've heard others who have remote min/max units that work well.

7 more leaf cages...good luck with it!

Barb

hardyjim · Post by **hardyjim** » Fri Nov 21, 2008 9:48 pm

Yea,my system is pretty easy really if it is above 25F and sunny,open flaps, if less or not sure of sun or not,better to cold then to hot, last year I think the temp went from 23F-90F the same day,not ideal but it did not seem to bother them much.I try to keep the temp range more like 40F in one day but like you pointed out not always managable,I have been interested in weather as a hobbie for 30years,so the cold hardy plant thing is a good fit as I watch weather closely anyway.I generally try for no lower than 10F and no higher than 90F during the time while they are protected,this worked well enough to keep 2 trachys planted Nov 1st alive and healthy with no leaf loss,so should work just fine for palms etc planted in April

my one mistake was to baby them a little going into winter when they should have been stressed in drought mode,I will not make that mistake again.As far as the leaf cages go,I have come up with another plan that may work even better-I was going to use light fixtures like last year with 125wt heat lamps but now I think I will use C-7 x-mas lights,I can wrap them a few inchs wider than leaf area and get even heat around the whole plant instead of directing heat away and warming up the whole mini-g/h,this will form a small sheild of warmth around the plant of even warmth,also on the smaller ones with the waggies inside I can loosen bulbs until I get the desired temp,each bulb heats up to 150F and is 5wts,25 on a strand,so 125wts,same as 125wt heat lamp but more effective----So the new plan involves using 1 or 2 bulbs under the styrofoam containers which provide very good insulation,I am trying this tonight and it looks more promising than locking palms down under leaves in dark for 3-4 months,I can also lift the tops of on mild days and keep them in the game! I think in three years in the ground most of the trachys and sabals should be able to handle 0F and I will not heat the mini g/h's unless subzero is expected,which would mean heating only a week and up to a month during the most severe weather but even then a large leaf pile or some other insulation might do.

lucky1 · Post by **lucky1** » Sat Nov 22, 2008 8:34 am

23F to 90F in one day...that'd be stress!

I like your idea of not heating the whole GH, just the plant.
My feeling is, in nature, the soil takes longer than air to cool in the Fall; the reverse in the Spring. Supposedly that's why roots continue to grow into the early Fall.
Mimicking nature as closely as possible would suggest in the Fall the plant's leaves can take cooler (dropping) temps, whereas in the Spring, air begins to warm as sun's angle improves, while the ground is slow to warm up.

With the leaf piles, I agree that 3-4 months of darkness couldn't be good for a plant (but certainly better than sunshine and 40-below temps.) In windy areas, though, I bet the leaf piles would be preferrable to a plastic GH buffeted by 60 mph winds out of the north.

You've put a lot of thought into it.
Bet you can "see" your trachys and washys in 10 years.
Me too.

Barb

hardyjim · Post by **hardyjim** » Sat Nov 22, 2008 1:57 pm

The 23F-90F does not seem to bother them but I can tell you it is a rare event as I usually can be home in time to open flaps,I would not want this to happen very often,I think twice a month would be the most -In ten years time,I hope I still live here to see them!I am kind of commited now,don't ya think

I think you really hit on some thing with the soil temps lagging behind air temps,I think a lot of people don,t pull mulch back in spring and allow the sun to warm up the soil,this puts a lot of strain on plants coming out of winter and I believe that even though palms make it through the winter,when people try to water there palms like they would in spring/summer as air temps rise, this leaves the roots open to rot and the next thing you know the spear pulls.In March of this year the soil here had warmed over 50F by the first day of spring and the soil temp, under the mulch had not moved,this shows that its important not to start watering alot just because its warmer out,continue to keep palms dry,expose soil on warm spring days and put the mulch back during cold or rain to keep soil dry and warm and water moderately untill palm shows active growth then gradually increase water.I like to water lightly on a warm spring day while mulch is pulled back, this lets the moist soil transport warmth as top layer dries,and your in good shape if you need to push mulch back,it may seem like a lot of work to some but its good exercise and palms will love you for it!

lucky1 · Post by **lucky1** » Sat Nov 22, 2008 2:29 pm

You are indeed committed now.
For plant lovers, ten years go by in a flash.

Re the mulch and soil temps...it can work to your advantage too.
This isn't for palms:
If warmer than normal weather threatens VERY sensitive plants into thinking it's spring, apparently placing a big slab of block ice on the soil above the roots (without touching stem) will tell the plant it's still too cold to swell buds. Keeping mulch on around a plant would have the same effect.

I don't grow roses, but some folks have expensive named varieties and they're always in a hurry to place mulch around the stems. I told my neighbour to wait until the first good frost and then place mulch. They need to go dormant first.

Barb

hardyjim · Post by **hardyjim** » Sat Nov 22, 2008 7:08 pm

Yea,you can sure do a lot of tricks with mulch!not to mention covering plants with it in spring to prevent cold damage,I guess we did kind of cover that.

lucky1 · Post by **lucky1** » Sat Nov 22, 2008 9:30 pm

Yes we did.

Pic break:

Yucca filamentosa still growing, pic today:

CIDP still growing in the cold building. Lots of sunshine this Fall has extended the season.

Lots of plants overwinter in that building:

Barb

hardyjim · Post by **hardyjim** » Sun Nov 23, 2008 7:23 am

Great collection Barb,I am looking to try some tree ferns next year D.antarctica and Mexican tree fern,I have read that a 3'mexican tree fern can grow 15' in a season

lucky1 · Post by **lucky1** » Sun Nov 23, 2008 9:07 am

Tree ferns...wonderful.

Canadian nurseries are just not adventurous enough to stock them.
Although limited, I believe a market exists for specialty plants.
Do your nurseries stock them?

I've wanted an Australian grass tree for a long time.
Just not prepared to order one from there...

Barb

hardyjim · Post by **hardyjim** » Sun Nov 23, 2008 10:17 pm

No,nobody around here would sell something like this,I order just about everything off e-bay,they actually do have both of these but I will wait untill spring to order anything.I have read that tree ferns and some cycads can be overwintered with leaf cages but I will wait to see how the ones I have covered now do and if it works I may try it next year

lucky1 · Post by **lucky1** » Mon Nov 24, 2008 8:30 am

Makes sense.

Cycads are expensive.
They're inside at the first hint of cooler weather in early September.

Barb

hardyjim · Post by **hardyjim** » Mon Nov 24, 2008 6:37 pm

Last year I left my Sago out through most of Nov,it was unfazed by 20F weather and some days not much above freezing,I think this is why they were mentioned(along with D.antarctica) as potenial plants for overwintering outside with leaf piles as the piles if done correctly, are not supposed to drop below 20F but after watching mine grow for the first time in 2 years,I am a little more attached to it,as I mentioned,a lot depends on the success of my palms this winter that are in leaf piles.I will also be putting a thermometer with min/max function in one to see how much protection they really provide,should be interesting to pull the thermometer in spring and see what the dealeo is

lucky1 · Post by **lucky1** » Mon Nov 24, 2008 7:58 pm

Of the cycads, a Sago is definitely more cold tolerant than the majority. There probably is a limit

You make a very good point. I also get so attached to plants, especially once they've been with me for 7, 8 years or more.
That makes me less likely to risk pushing them climate-wise.
Yet that's the age where they'd probably be able to take winter better.
It's a Catch 22.

Bet you've got a journal ready to jot down temps and apparent cold hardiness by, say, late February early March.
That'll be valuable information.

Barb

hardyjim · Post by **hardyjim** » Tue Nov 25, 2008 11:11 am

Yea,I do keep records of it all but there are a lot of variables as seen this year in the agaves,I have one that is very small planted in front of the Y.aloifolia,probably same kind as at least one of the other damaged agaves,anyway it was not well rooted thus,a little starved for moisture and is totally fine with no cold damage, keeping plants dry is key.One other thing worth mentioning is having a cover,weather its a porch roof or mini g/h also greatly helps plants deal with cold,when you don't have frost forming on leaves it is much harder for them to freeze as the ice acts as a catalyst,my trachys that are covered have already seen 13F and are not damaged.B.T.W.the D.indivisa that I assumed was pretty cold hardy is not as c/ h as I suspected,at least not under normal conditions all the other ones I have seen have spear pull,these might be worth another try to get a fair shake but I think much below 20F may be their limit.

lucky1 · Post by **lucky1** » Tue Nov 25, 2008 2:49 pm

The toughest thing to factor would be any plant newly in the ground -- good roots or not.

If you had to select only one method (versus a combination) to keep your plants alive over winter: water, leaf-envelope, heat, roof including wind-control on one side, GH, humidity control, etc.
I'd choose roof (assuming it's not a Zone 11 plant).
Barb

hardyjim · Post by **hardyjim** » Tue Nov 25, 2008 8:42 pm

Yep,I think in your area all you would need is a mini g/h type set up.In Iowa you may be able some years to go with this set up, if we are talking the most cold hardy of the cold hardy;sabals,trachycarpus,needle palms,etc but heat would need to be provided some years as we almost always(always as far as I know)go below zero F at some point.I think at some point with the right protection and hadening off you may be able to bring a sabal,needle or trachy through below zero weather but I have not personally tried this,although I hear it is not uncommon for them to survive this.

lucky1 · Post by **lucky1** » Wed Nov 26, 2008 1:46 pm

In the end, we can't eliminate the risk, just plan for it.

Arizona gardening websites warn against unexpected cold temps that occur at some time each winter.
And even Florida gets nailed now and then with frost.

Barb

hardyjim · Post by **hardyjim** » Wed Dec 03, 2008 11:03 am

Here is a pic I took of the west side of the yard at night,I used 8 strands of C-9 lights,I also put 4 lights a piece in the strofoam covers,this adds about 40F+ to the inside temp,I hope the mini g/h's are as warm as they are bright

lucky1 · Post by **lucky1** » Wed Dec 03, 2008 12:28 pm

Nicely done, Jim.
Be that'd work nicely for temps down to 10 F.
Or even a bit lower, I'd imagine.
Barb

hardyjim · Post by **hardyjim** » Wed Dec 03, 2008 7:43 pm

I had it on for about an hour today,(not while sun was up )the outside temp was 20F and inside it was 50F,it does have some ice and snow on it and that does help to insulate it,however if I turn it on the ice/snow will melt and it will loose some insulation but it was only on for an hour and if I can get a 30F bump,I figure I'm good to -20F as these palms are acclimated at this point and have already seen 12F with NO damage.The nice thing about these x-mas lights is if they make it to warm inside,you can always loosen a few bulbs!

lucky1 · Post by **lucky1** » Thu Dec 04, 2008 6:36 am

Thirty degrees above outside temps.
Great!
A good feeling knowing your valuable plants are safe for the entire winter.

You'll want a chair inside

Barb

hardyjim · Post by **hardyjim** » Sat Dec 06, 2008 8:57 pm

Funny you should mention a chair,I guess great minds think alike

Here are some more pics of the rest of the mini g/h's and some inside pics of the larger g/h.I have not had much of a chance to use the chair in the past month but after this week I should be able to enjoy it more often!The pic with the thermometer is 4"down in the soil-
<a href="http://s297.photobucket.com/albums/mm22 ... -08005.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm22 ... -08005.jpg" border="0" alt="Chill'in"></a>
<a href="http://s297.photobucket.com/albums/mm22 ... -08003.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm22 ... -08003.jpg" border="0" alt="Looking back"></a>
<a href="http://s297.photobucket.com/albums/mm22 ... -08011.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm22 ... -08011.jpg" border="0" alt="soil temp 12-6-08"></a>
<a href="http://s297.photobucket.com/albums/mm22 ... -08002.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm22 ... -08002.jpg" border="0" alt="Parryi 12-6-08"></a>
<a href="http://s297.photobucket.com/albums/mm22 ... -08017.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm22 ... -08017.jpg" border="0" alt="2 Trachys 2nd winter"></a>
<a href="http://s297.photobucket.com/albums/mm22 ... ion005.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm22 ... ion005.jpg" border="0" alt="W/P 12-5-08"></a>
<a href="http://s297.photobucket.com/albums/mm22 ... ion010.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm22 ... ion010.jpg" border="0" alt="12-05-08"></a>

anttisepp · Post by **anttisepp** » Sun Dec 07, 2008 1:47 am

Looks fantastic!
What do your neiboughrs say?

lucky1 · Post by **lucky1** » Sun Dec 07, 2008 9:06 am

Attaboy, Jim!
Those agaves are especially nice.

I looked for agaves last month...not one to be found around here.
Will check again in spring.

Since your goal is to increase hardiness in these planted specimens, I presume you'll nudge them closer to freezing than the current 47F soil temp.

What soil temp will you be trying to maintain as "real winter" arrives?

Barb

hardyjim · Post by **hardyjim** » Sun Dec 07, 2008 12:09 pm

Ha,"real winter weather" has arrived here! Last winter the lowest soil temp was 40-41F under protective mulch,there is about 3" of (mulch)gravel in the cactus garden,so I don't imagine it would get much less than that .My plan now rather than taking these to single digits, is to not let it drop below upper teens as I don't think parryi or havardiana have seen much cold weather where they came from so I will baby them for 4-6 weeks. The Mazari is one I am really pulling for!
<a href="http://s297.photobucket.com/albums/mm22 ... -08007.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm22 ... -08007.jpg" border="0" alt="Y.gloriosa"></a>
<a href="http://s297.photobucket.com/albums/mm22 ... -08006.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm22 ... -08006.jpg" border="0" alt="12-6-08"></a>
<a href="http://s297.photobucket.com/albums/mm22 ... -08008.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm22 ... -08008.jpg" border="0" alt="12-6-08"></a>
<a href="http://s297.photobucket.com/albums/mm22 ... -08015.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm22 ... -08015.jpg" border="0" alt="Mazari,hanging in there"></a>

lucky1 · Post by **lucky1** » Mon Dec 08, 2008 9:07 am

Jim,
Your hardier plants will certainly benefit from the parryi/havard.-protection temps.
Still growing!
They'll "think" there wasn't any winter at all!

The Mazari will only become more beautiful...already great color.
Barb

hardyjim · Post by **hardyjim** » Mon Dec 08, 2008 8:46 pm

I would really like to see the Mazari make it,I have tried so many of these,as with most plants be tried in colder zones getting one that is a little older is the best bet,this palm is very well rooted and I think some of its color loss from earlier this season is from cold and miosture together.The Mazari was just starting to get going as the cooler fall weather hit,maybe a hot summer would do the trick.Barb,have you tried e-bay for agaves,etc?,this is where I buy basically all my plants.
<a href="http://s297.photobucket.com/albums/mm22 ... -08008.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm22 ... -08008.jpg" border="0" alt="Nannhorrhops S.silver 7-17-08"></a><a href="http://s297.photobucket.com/albums/mm22 ... -08015.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm22 ... -08015.jpg" border="0" alt="Mazari,hanging in there"></a>

lucky1 · Post by **lucky1** » Mon Dec 08, 2008 9:34 pm

Jim
D.Francko of Palms Won't Grow Here and Other Myths states that Mazari palms might be even more cold hardy than Needle palms, so that's encouraging for you.
AND they're reported to LIKE hot hot temps...up to 125 F.

I saw Agaves a couple of years ago (when I didn't want one).
Now that I do, they're all sold out.
Will try the nursery again in spring; they'll probably get a supply at that time.
I'll try eBay last...shipping into Canada from the US is such a pain, unless I find a Canadian supplier.

Good soil temp you've got.
Barb

hardyjim · Post by **hardyjim** » Tue Dec 09, 2008 8:45 pm

I have read(palms won't grow here etc)that to,I have also heard that they usuallyy don't survive below middle teens but I think people sometimes are not aware that there is a big difference between a palm stressed in drought mode(so basically dry) going into cold weather and one that is wet,this is one plant I payed special attention to keeping dry.It is always tough the first year trying to keep things watered in and not having them be wet going into winter,this mazari is very well rooted and looks like it has a good chance!

lucky1 · Post by **lucky1** » Tue Dec 09, 2008 9:35 pm

There's a heck of a big spread between middle teens and "colder than a needle palm"

Yes your mazari looks very robust.
Is it my imagination/coincidence that blue-leafed plants all want to be dry and can handle blazing heat in summer?

Barb

hardyjim · Post by **hardyjim** » Wed Dec 10, 2008 4:46 am

I can'y think of any blue colored plants that don't handle heat well,this is a feature( the blue coloration) in many cactus too

hardyjim · Post by **hardyjim** » Wed Dec 17, 2008 1:19 pm

Had a close call Sunday night......On thursday I planted a new C.humilis in the large G/house,I was planning on keeping it from getting to cold right away along with the new cactus that were planted last week and last weekend,so sunday night we had our first really cold arctic front,winds gusting over 40mph and temps went from 59F during the day to 5F by midnight.I decided to stay up and keep an eye on things until about 1am,the temp was holding close to 20F which is a little colder than I would have liked but warm enough when it suddenly dropped to 12F I ran outside to see what was going on and noticed the back wall off the greenhouse had opened up! after almost getting frostbite as windchills were in the -20 to -25F range I finally got it closed back up and braced.Always a good idea to keep a close watch on protection,esp during major cold with high wind! I checked the C.humilis today and it still looks great!,still though,pretty close call.GET'ER DONE!

lucky1 · Post by **lucky1** » Wed Dec 17, 2008 2:17 pm

that was cutting it close, Jim!
Good you caught it in time.

Might be an idea to tape some Christmas bells...or something to that GH flap...if wind opens it again, you'll hear the bells.
Cheap alarm

That same arctic cold front has most of us in its grip...BRRRR.
Barb

hardyjim · Post by **hardyjim** » Thu Dec 18, 2008 11:45 am

Yea,

or to the plants! I looked at the palms again today by the plastic that pulled down and they are looking good! I 'm glad I kept an eye on them or they would have had a rough go.I think the problem is taken care of now so hopefully thats the last time for that issue,however yesterday some snow/ice fell off the big greenhouse and broke through the plastic on the biggest mini g/h so I had to patch that last night,(I actually though that might happen but never put a barrier between them)so thats fixed for now.They are predicting heavy precip with possible 1" ice accumulation or heavy sleet and maybe snow,so well see whats next

PalmsNorth.com

Rain and winter cover

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